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Unsightly ceiling cracks detract from any room's look, but, fortunately, repairing them is often a DIY project.

Start by rolling the driveway crack filler rope onto a sunny section of the driveway so it warms and softens. While it’s warming, remove all the dirt, weeds and old driveway crack filler from the cracks. Scrape out the old material with a flat-blade screwdriver or 5-in-1 paint tool.

Cracks appear in drywall and plaster for several reasons, from normal settling of the house, to faulty workmanship, roof truss uplift, or water leaks. While repairing cracks on walls is pretty straightforward, it’s a bit more complicated with ceilings, which typically have some type of texture applied and are overhead, making the repairs a (literal) pain in the neck. By following a few time-honored techniques, a savvy homeowner can often successfully repair cracks in ceilings without too much trouble. The trick is knowing what to do first, what tools to use, and recognizing whether it’s time to call in the professionals.

DO pinpoint the cause of the crack.

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2. Concerning cracking, which is the most important repair failure in most cases it could be due to restrained shrinkage (Pattnaik and Rangaraju, 2007). Figure 23.3 shows the cracking behaviour of repair mortars due to differential shrinkage between the reparation layer and the substrate concrete, which is a very heterogeneous and complex process.
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Sometimes, the cause of a ceiling crack is apparent, such as visible water stains on the ceiling, which indicates a leak caused the joint compound to soften and crack. A delicate spider web of hairline cracks is often the result of applying joint compound too thickly, which resulted in shrinkage and the development of cracks as it dried. Before tackling this ceiling repair, correct the cause of the cracks, such as fixing leaks to prevent cracks from recurring.

DON’T proceed without a plan.

Depending on the type of ceiling texture and the extent of the crack, ceiling repairs might involve removing some of the texture to make the repair and then patching the ceiling with a product that matches the rest of its surface. Rather than smearing some spackle into the crack with a finger (which sometimes works!), consider whether retexturing or painting will be necessary to give the ceiling a finished look after the crack repairs are complete. For the best results, consider all aspects of the project and the desired outcome.

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RELATED: 9 Ceiling Types You’ll See in Homes

DO consider popcorn ceiling removal.

All the rage in the 1960s and 70s, popcorn ceilings that still survive today are often dust and grime collectors, and any type of crack repair is likely to stick out like a sore thumb. Since this type of ceiling can actually reduce a home’s market value, this may be an excellent time to get rid of the texture or cover it up with drywall panels or rigid foam panels. Popcorn ceilings installed before 1978 may contain asbestos, so it’s vital to find out what type of popcorn texture is on your ceiling before making repairs. It’s usually better to have an asbestos-remediation expert remove a popcorn ceiling that contains asbestos.

DON’T cheap out—buy the right tools for ceiling repair.

If the crack is a very thin hairline—and it’s been there for a while—odds are you can simply put a little spackling on a finger and smear it carefully into the crack, taking care to wipe away residue from the surface. More often, however, the crack will be larger, or the ceiling will have multiple cracks. When this is the case, using the right tools and materials will provide the best results. A 6-inch taping knife works well for removing loose ceiling texture and peeling paper. A small tub of premixed drywall mud is necessary for filling the cracks, and using mesh or paper drywall tape to reinforce the compound is helpful. A drywall sanding sponge comes in handy for smoothing the surface after the mixture dries.

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DO protect the walls and floor.

Wet drywall compound has a way of dripping everywhere when you’re working overhead, so take steps to protect walls, the floor, and any other items in the room. Lay down a canvas tarp on the floor (plastic drop cloths can become wet and dangerously slippery), and cover any furniture with lightweight plastic drop cloths to avoid ruining them. If the ceiling crack is near a wall, consider covering the wall with a plastic drop cloth to keep splatters off.

DON’T shorten time for drying.

Ceiling crack repairs made with wet drywall compound should be completely dry before another coating is applied. The general rule-of-thumb here is to apply the mixture in the thinnest coat possible, making sure to remove excess with a taping knife. When completely dry, the compound will turn a bright white color. At that point, it can be sanded down and recoated.

DO try a flexible patching compound.

If you’ve repaired a crack in ceiling drywall before, only to have the crack reappear a few weeks or months later, consider sealing the ceiling repair with a flexible product such as Elastopatch Smooth Flexible Patching Compound (available from Amazon). Rather than applying standard paper or mesh drywall tape to the crack, brush on a thin coat of Elastopatch with a small brush—directly over a crack that’s been filled with compound or spackling and then sanded smooth. One or two coats of Elastopatch is all it takes to form a flexible seal over the repaired crack.

DON’T forget to stay safe.

Sanding drywall compound can create billows of dust, and a DIYer should wear a dust mask in addition to eye protection before tackling the task. In addition, when working overhead, use only a sturdy step ladder (no wobbly chairs or stools) in order to reach the ceiling.

RELATED: 11 Breathtaking Ideas for a Wood Ceiling

DO add a finishing touch.

Repaired cracks can look nearly as bad as the cracks themselves if the repairs don’t match the rest of the ceiling. Ceiling patch repair products are available in sprays and semi-liquids for applying with a sponge—be sure to get one that matches the ceiling’s texture. Painting the ceiling is also an option, in which case, look for a high-hiding ceiling paint in a neutral color.

DON’T skip other ceiling updates.

Once the ceiling repair is complete and the ceiling texture has been patched, a dated light fixture or a rusty return-air vent can mar the new look. Consider replacing an old light fixture with a new one, and replace an old vent—or at least clean it and give it a fresh coat of paint—to give the whole room a fresh new look.

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Brick Doctor is the leading brick repair specialist in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. We specialize in crack repairs and replacing broken brick due to foundation settling, vehicle damage, plumbing repair damage, and deterioration problems. These repairs involve several important details to insure they are both professional looking and long lasting.

Determining the Scope of Work.

The first critical step in any repair is to properly identify what needs to be done. A Brick Doctor Project Manager can meet with you and help you determine a reasonable scope of work, based on your needs and wishes. Your desire to simply improve the appearance of your brick may alone determine your needs.

Some minor imperfections in your brickwork may not require repair at all, such as fine hairline cracks or minor erosion of mortar.

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However, delaying other repairs could allow damage to other components of your home. For example, broken brick and cracked mortar joints wider than 1/16” (Can you insert a dime in the crack?) not only look bad, but can also allow water penetration with resulting damage to other construction materials behind the wall.

Brick Doctor can help you prioritize any necessary brick repair issues and give you a free written estimate for restoring your home’s brickwork to its original (or even improved) beauty and function.

Proper Brick Matching is essential. Damaged, cracked, or severely deteriorated brick should almost always be sawed out of the wall and replaced with new units. If you don’t have extra matching bricks, leave it to us to find the best available match.

Brick Doctor’s large inventory of rare and hard-to-find brick, and expertise in finding or creating special colors and textures is critical to the process.

Trust us, “Brick that don’t match will look like a patch.” Many of our projects include re-doing such repairs performed by others. Here are more tips on brick and mortar matching.

Repairing Mortar. The technique for repairing mortar properly, or “repointing,” is similar to a dentist’s repair on a tooth’s cavity—the doctor doesn’t simply fill the cavity in a one-step procedure. Voids and deteriorated or cracked mortar joints must first be ground or chiseled out to a minimum depth of 5/8” and the cavity cleaned out thoroughly.

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For repairs, mortar should be pre-shrunk, and the cavity moistened before placing the new mortar. These steps take additional time but help to insure proper bonding of the original mortar to the new mortar, and helps prevent shrinking as it dries. Mortar should be custom-blended to match existing, without using unauthorized additives such as latex.

Any additive should first be approved by a proper governing authority to insure that it meets industry standards for strength and durability. (For further details, go to Brick Institute of America site , and then go to technical notes, mortar, additives).

Expansion Joints. Most Metroplex city building codes now require vertical expansion joints to be placed in brick walls on new construction to help prevent settling cracks. These “seams” in the walls are quite effective when spaced properly, and can also be added to existing homes and buildings that have suffered from foundation settling.

After the crack and brick repairs are completed, expansion joints can be cut completely through the brick and mortar, and caulk joints created. This allows minor expansion and contraction of the adjacent veneer walls without re-cracking the brick and mortar joints.

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“Hind-sight is 20-20,” so it’s a good idea to add one or more where you know settling problems exist, usually under windows or in the middle of a long wall, such as on the side of the garage. This represents an additional expense, but should be considered preventive maintenance since it often eliminates the need to repair cracks to the same areas over and over again.

Even if you are considering selling your home, it may give you peace of mind that you are transferring the property without significant risk that the brick may re-crack.

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